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sgp0511
02-23-2014, 10:33 PM
Ok so I'm working on getting my 65 coronet back on the road the only problem I'm having is the camber on the front wheels. So if I drive down the road and I run over a bump say a speed bump, my caster goes really positive, so much that when I get out and look at the car of looks likes its raised up in the front end. And if I try to drive it like this the wheels squeal like crazy, and if I hit that same speed bump again it may or may not go back to normal camber, it's really frustrating as I e been dealing with this for a while and I'm stumped. It has newer poly front strut rod bushings and ball joints are about 2 years old. Any ideas what could be causing this?

Piper
02-23-2014, 11:01 PM
I had a similar problem years ago, bought the whole pst poly kit, my old camber bolts were thrashed(even though they seemed ok) the new ones solved my issue.

badmopar67
02-24-2014, 06:48 AM
Sounds like your lower control arm bushings

sgp0511
02-24-2014, 12:19 PM
Was doing some research and it does sound like lca bushings, gonna tear into it today, I'm looking at the end of the torsion bar for the horseshoe clips to remove them when I slide the lca back but I don't see any clips? I see a groove where a clip can go but no clip it looks like

sgp0511
02-24-2014, 12:20 PM
Any tips on removing lca?

badmopar67
02-24-2014, 07:42 PM
Well how are you making out you need to replace the clip when you put it back together and also check your strut rod bushings because that unnecessary stress with the lower control arm bushing being bad might have messed up your front strut Rod bushing both of those bushings (strut rod and lower control arm bushings) need to be good shape at the same time you might want to check/change those also while you're there how is your upper control arm bushings? All those components need to be in good shape while you're digging so far into the car you Might want to check everything you don't want to be piece working that stuff.

sgp0511
02-25-2014, 01:19 PM
The problem is I can't see the horseshoe clip not tht I wanna replace it u came even get it out, and front strut rod bushings are about 1year old and upper control arm bushings also about 1 year old, wasn't able to dig into it this weekend me and the wife stayed out later than we thought :) so i plan on getting to it in 2 weeks this weekend will be occupied by our Kansas trip:)

badmopar67
02-25-2014, 05:43 PM
You should be able to grab it when a pair needle nose pliers very simply the prongs should be sticking right up shouldn't be a problem at all to see it keep us up-to-date on how you make out

sgp0511
02-26-2014, 11:54 AM
I think the clips are missing ends of torsion bar bc I did see a pic where the prongs should be sticking out and there's nothing there, just a groove where it should be, well thank everyone for the input still waiting on a free weekend to get started already, as I'm so ready to be riding my coronet again , after I get LCa bushings changed just need a battery and to get her registered again

67r/t4speeder
02-26-2014, 12:15 PM
Did you shine a light up where bushing is and make sure that is your problem ?

You will be able to see end of bushing where lower control arm pivot bolts to K-member, and give you an idea of its condition

sgp0511
03-19-2014, 12:36 AM
Ok so finally got the lca pulled out, got the old bushing inner and outer shell out, now whats the best way to put the new bushing in? I know it needs to be pressed but I don't have a press and really don't want to take it to anyone, is there a way I can do this myself without a press? I was thinking about renting an upper ballpoint press, basically the same idea as lowers right? Any suggestions would be appreciated

ws27
03-19-2014, 09:43 AM
You may be able to use a threaded rod big enough with the right size sockets and washers to pull it through.

67r/t4speeder
03-19-2014, 09:59 AM
Not sure what you have laying around but the all thread method will work like Rich said with some work. Not sure how you will be able to get the pivot pin back without at least a hand press, just make sure you support inner sleeve from back side when putting in so you dont ruin new bushing. And also don't fully tighten pivot nut through K-member until weight of vehicle is on.

They rent those hand presses at the car parts for free around here anyway.

Nice to hear you doing this yourself, best way to learn :)

sgp0511
03-19-2014, 11:45 AM
Can someone please explain with more detail what the "threaded method" is? Also i can rent a press from autozone. I looked at the tools they have to rent yesterday and the only thing I saw that could possibly work was an upper balljoint press? Would that work? Or what kind of press would I need to rent?

67r/t4speeder
03-19-2014, 12:15 PM
something like this for the all thread methodhttp://ts3.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608002897718282757&w=281&h=187&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7

sgp0511
03-20-2014, 10:30 AM
Whoa that's a good idea gonna try tht Saturday, is there a reason there's a ring on one end of the bolt and washer on the other? Can I just use washers on both sides?

67r/t4speeder
03-20-2014, 10:58 AM
Whoa that's a good idea gonna try tht Saturday, is there a reason there's a ring on one end of the bolt and washer on the other? Can I just use washers on both sides?

Just a generic picture, you can make up anything that will get it done

sgp0511
03-23-2014, 01:39 AM
Alright finally after a long day I have gotten the passenger side lower control arm bushing changed out and everything reinstalled. I don't know why I've put this off for so long no wasn't that hard of a job only problem I had was with the pivot shaft going back on that thing was a b$&@! To squeeze in there but I managed to get it in without messing things up too bad gonna do other side next week should go smooth, and thanks for the all thread idea worked like a charm

sgp0511
03-30-2014, 09:45 AM
Got both bushings replaced!! Now she just needs a tuneup and I have a question the bearing cap cover on my front wheel fell off and I got one from autozone but it doesn't fit right and won't stay on its like the cup isn't deep enough where can I get a bearing cap that will fit and stay on??

sgp0511
03-30-2014, 09:47 AM
Also whats the best oil to use I know a lot of oils now don't have zinc what oil brand has the zinc I need?

67r/t4speeder
03-30-2014, 10:13 AM
On the bearing cap, get a pair of wire cutters and put three or four kinks in edge that fits hub and work it back in place.

67r/t4speeder
03-30-2014, 10:16 AM
Valvoline vr1 works for me and easy to find local

sgp0511
04-02-2014, 10:04 AM
thanks so much for all the replies gotta wait til my next paycheck to finish her up.

sgp0511
04-12-2014, 01:48 PM
Going today to insure and register her then a tune up and she's back as my everyday driver after 2 years sitting!! Tired of driving my "modern" car haha

sgp0511
04-15-2014, 09:11 AM
shes legal!! drove her to work today and ran fine!! just needs alignment and new exhaust

67r/t4speeder
04-15-2014, 10:10 AM
shes legal!! drove her to work today and ran fine!! just needs alignment and new exhaust
Thumbs up !! you did it :)

sgp0511
04-15-2014, 11:56 AM
yea was nervous driving to work today (18 miles) but ran fine other than a little tire squeal on turns (needs alignment) and the old exhaust is killing me (probably literally) its a bad single turned dual exhaust job me and my friend did in high school, leaks everywhere, sounds horrible lol. So any ideas whats the best route, i want basically the stock single exhaust back. I know i need to go to an exhaust shop, but does anyone have a ballpark range of what i should expect to pay for single exhaust from the manifolds back?

sgp0511
04-15-2014, 11:57 AM
i dont want anything fancy, just something not as loud and cheap bc funds are very low right now and i dont want to be breathing these fumes long, plus smelling like old exhaust at work isnt fun