Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: Trans leaking like a sieve after parked-couple other leaks.

  1. #1
    Senior Member 67RTBlue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Detroit suburbs
    Posts
    549

    Question Trans leaking like a sieve after parked-couple other leaks.

    Ever since I messed with the kickdown link it seems to have gotten worse. I had a small drop coming from the bottom of the bell housing but now it's leaving a trail on the garage floor. (Cardboard down) I thought I remember reading somewhere about the linkage adjustment and a valve inside the trans that allows the fluid to drain back into the pan causing a leak. But why would it be coming from the bell housing area? Tranny was rebuilt new seals and all.
    Also the rear main or rear of the pan have been leaking ONLY while driven. The oil pump to block also weeping a bit not too bad. Motor also full rebuild. Driving me crazy and making a mess of the pristine undercarriage.
    Thoughts tips??

  2. #2
    Senior Member Hibbing_Coronet_500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hibbing Minnesota.
    Posts
    433
    The vent is on top of the pump just behind the converter. I suspect the converter seal has failed. Also double check kick down adjustment. Ive had massive leak issues myself with my 67 and I know your pain. Mine so far have cured.

  3. #3
    I was the first... 67r/t4speeder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Caldwell, Idaho
    Posts
    5,980
    Make sure the drain plug in the converter isn't leaking if it has one.
    The Idaho Andy

  4. #4
    What's a stroker? theman440's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    1,255
    Unless you put a check valve in the cooler line the convertor will always drain into the trans case when sitting long periods. Usually its the selector shaft seal that leaks when the case fills up.
    If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?

  5. #5
    Senior Member 67RTBlue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Detroit suburbs
    Posts
    549
    Didn't have such a big leak till I adjusted the kickdown a bit. Last weekend I re-adjusted pet the manual. Still leaks.
    As a side note after the service manual procedure the car seems to go through the gears quick. Like by 25 I'm already in 3rd. Thoughts on that?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Hibbing_Coronet_500's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Hibbing Minnesota.
    Posts
    433
    Under hard throttle? Mine car hits 3rd quick just driving normal in town driving. Under a hard pull it takes longer. I would try to adjust it back to where it was. Hell with the manual.

  7. #7
    What's a stroker? theman440's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    1,255
    I always adjust the kickdown so the trans up-shifts at 5500-6000 at full throttle. You can adjust according to your liking.
    If a man speaks while in his garage and his wife does not hear it, is he still wrong?

  8. #8
    Senior Member 67RTBlue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Detroit suburbs
    Posts
    549
    Does making the rod longer (which forces the arm on the trans back further) make for later shifts or shortening it? The quirky 70's Chrysler video says it's better to be a bit longer (we all know that!) Ha! Too short runs the risk of burning up things inside the trans.

  9. #9
    I was the first... 67r/t4speeder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Caldwell, Idaho
    Posts
    5,980
    I recommend adjusting it the way the factory service manual says to. You definitely do not want too short, about midway of the transmission lever is where the resistance starts and you can feel it when disconnected and pulling back on arm from full forward.
    The Idaho Andy

  10. #10
    Senior Member 67RTBlue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Detroit suburbs
    Posts
    549
    Quote Originally Posted by 67r/t4speeder View Post
    I recommend adjusting it the way the factory service manual says to. You definitely do not want too short, about midway of the transmission lever is where the resistance starts and you can feel it when disconnected and pulling back on arm from full forward.
    Seems like it should hold each gear a little longer. It rolls through all 3 by the time I hit 20 under light throttle! Would shortening the rod a little extend the wind-out in each gear?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •