Suspension Height Question

[roadworthy]

Since I am going to have new leaf springs and coils made for the '49 anyway, would I have to do anything special to drop it one or two inches? Just a thought, it may look good lowered a bit. The tires should still clear, will the steering column need to be adjusted or any linkage moved? Has anyone lowered their older Coronet already?

[48mirage]

For the rear I've seen guys use lowering blocks on the the springs. That way you can experiment with the right height without making any permanent changes. As far as lowering the front, I've only heard of cutting the coil springs to lower it and then getting a realignment. I would think a shock relocation might be in order for the front also.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=13293&highlight=shock+relocation

Take a look at this thread, there are a couple of leads for relocating the front shocks.

Try this also.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215548

[roadworthy]

Looks like some research is in order... and I'll have some work to do. Aside from moving the front shock mount, anything else I should look for?

[R/T XTC]

check Fatman maybe they can help,

[roadworthy]

I guess I'll be looking at a 2" drop in the rear and a 3" drop in the front, I may have to heat and bend the steering arm to correct angle geometry. The rear will be easy enough, I'll just tell the company making my leafs, and I think I may start working on the relocation mounts from the above thread tomorrow while I still have a plasma cutter available at work.
Fatter tires may be in the works too, not too much, just a little to beef up the look. I'll have to make sure they clear also.

[48mirage]

6" wheels in the back is as wide as you will want to go.

[roadworthy]

I have new tires on the car now, and I just picked up my new leaf springs today. The car came with 8 leafs and an 8 1/2" arch, I went with a 7 leaf and 6 1/2 arch, which should effectively drop the rear close to 2 1/2". Two new leafsprings with all the bushings and tax out the door was $198 and change. Kanter wants over 600 bucks for a set! I'll take some pics when I do the install, it won't be long before that happens. My left rear spring was cracked and rewelded, it broke and split apart last time I drove it so I don't want to push my luck on that one. It had some sort of flat stock and bolt combo sandwiching it all together...

[roadworthy]

So I got one of the rear leaf springs done today, only took me maybe 2 hours. I was kind of dreading doing it since the last time I replaced a leaf spring was on my '80 Bronco it was an all day event! I was pleasantly surprised by the ease of removal of the old bolts. Even though it did get away from me and I layed my pinky finger open (ouch!). Of course, I took my camera and when I went to shoot some pics I realized it was dead. :( Oh well, I'll charge the battery and get some good ones when I go back to do the other side. The new leaf spring gave it a close to 2" drop, which is pretty much was I was looking for in the rear, so thumbs up for that! I also knocked the surface rust off of a set of moon hubcaps and threw those on the car until I re-do the wheels, I kind of like how they look, all nice and shiny with a half primed/ half surface rusty car :)

[roadworthy]

before...

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02021.jpg

and after...

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02023.jpg


and the damn battery died in my camera again, I really need to charge it for more than 5 minutes before I try to use it... I took a side by side pic of the leafsprings on my cell camera, I'll have to transfer those tomorrow

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02024.jpg

[roadworthy]

here is a really bad cell phone pic of a side by side comparison of the old and new leafsprings

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/leafsprings.jpg

[LostInThorns]

Same springs I had in my 49 Plymouth with the metal wrapping. Amazing that those fine thread U-bolts don't just strip out- I wire brushed mine, sprayed some penetrant- and everything came loose easily. Back then cars were built to last!

[roadworthy]

Replaced my rear shocks today, they were completely shot. For anyone interested, AutoZone carries a Gabriel replacement shock part #81147 for 17 bucks a piece with lifetime warranty. Had to run some other numbers to find a cross reference match. I have a set of Ford F1 shock mounts on the way now too that I can use to relocate the front shock with a longer one and drop it the 3" I'm looking for. I'll keep you updated.

[carls 49]

great pics and updates. nice progress. :cool:

[roadworthy]

went ahead and cut my coils and dropped the front today

stock height

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02052.jpg

and dropped almost 3"

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02056.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02057.jpg

looks like I may need to drop the rear one more inch to even it out

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02064.jpg

I have all my parts on the way to relocate my front shocks and mount the upper to the frame so it actually dampens the suspension. The rear leafs and shocks really made a huge difference in ride quality. If the front is even half as nice as the rear I'll be happy, but I have a feeling it's going to make just as big of an improvement. I'm really happy with the lowered look :D

[67R/T4speeder]

Looks real nice, cant believe how straight it is and the trim looks in good shape from what I see. A fun car.

[roadworthy]

I have all the trim for the sides, it's sitting in the back seat until I can find some clips for it. Overall the car is in really good shape for it's age, and I am having fun driving it around town. None of my lights are working yet though, so I go old school with hand signals out the window ;)

[ws27]

Looks like a nice solid car.

Wait a bit on lowering the rear more, leaf springs settly within the first year and you may find that they settle where you want them.

[roadworthy]

Wait a bit on lowering the rear more, leaf springs settly within the first year and you may find that they settle where you want them.


I'll keep that in mind. I did have new ones made that have 2" less arch than what was on there, and they are almost flat installed.

[48mirage]

I've never lowered a frontend but have read/seen your method before. The other day on another forum I read about a guy who had done the same thing as you several times but had finally decided that cutting was the wrong way to go, that he had started ordering shorter coil springs with a different spring rate to keep from bottoming out the front end. The fact that you are relocating the front shocks may solve that problem. FWIW.

[roadworthy]

Yeah, I will probably still go and order different springs someday, but I figured this way is free for now. I did find a place in KS that will make the springs for about $160. Don't know if that's a good price, but it doesn't seem too expensive. If I stand on the bumper and bounce up and down it will bottom out now, but my front shocks are wasted to the point where I can compress them by hand and they just stay there. I think the relocation will solve that, all the info I can find says it should. But I agree, a shorter spring with a higher rate is probably the ideal way to go.

[roadworthy]

Okay, so I got my shock relocation brackets on today. Had a couple issues. The brackets were for a '34 Ford F1 full fender, and they were angled out and away from the frame. I thought I could get them to work that way by mounting them on the inside of the frame and over the top, but they were not long enough. So I was able to use the heat and bend method to get an acceptable angle so the top of the shock is mounted out and away from the frame but with plenty of clearance for the control arm. I drilled the frame and bolted through it. I used all grade 8 hardware to mount it, probably overkill, but I don't mind. You can see the chrome discoloration from the heat on the angle.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02070.jpg

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii104/bernimac28/other%20things/DSC02069.jpg


My other issue was the shock itself. Nothing wrong with it, just too long. I need to find one that is between this size and the stock length. This length would be perfect for stock ride height, but since I lowered mine 3" I need a shorter one. Hopefully Autozone has something in stock, because this ride is super bouncy right now!

[ws27]

There is a lot of room for play on the shock height, you've come a long way on this and I'm sure you know, but all you need is to make sure the shock travel matches the suspension travel. If you take your time it the shock book, you can find a set by dimension. The books list them. If you have trouble, find the 800 number in the book and ask for the tech line.

[roadworthy]

FWIW, if anyone wants to give this a shot, there is a set of shock mounts on ebay for cheap right now, less than what I paid for mine :(
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-52-Ford-PU-F1-Upper-Shock-Mounts-Hot-Rat-StreetRod_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ2 6ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d3Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ 3d8935967541215002927QQ_trksidZp3286Q2em7QQcategor yZ34200QQihZ025QQitemZ380228101150#ht_4519wt_754

and the Autozone Gabriel shock part number for stock ride height is 81676

basically everything you need to upgrade your front end ride for about 70 bucks after hardware

[roadworthy]

If you take your time it the shock book, you can find a set by dimension. The books list them. If you have trouble, find the 800 number in the book and ask for the tech line.



I was going to use the book, but AutoZone doesn't have one :confused:
I called the tech line and got a number in a couple minutes. Of course the guy was like, "why did you go and do that?" when I told him I lowered it and relocated the upper shock mount. Asshat.

[ws27]

I was going to use the book, but AutoZone doesn't have one :confused:
I called the tech line and got a number in a couple minutes. Of course the guy was like, "why did you go and do that?" when I told him I lowered it and relocated the upper shock mount. Asshat.

He probably drives a leased Honda :D

[roadworthy]

LOL, probably! We'll see if I get something that works tomorrow, they had to be ordered. Of course if all goes well I'll be listing a part number for anyone else to reference in the future.

[roadworthy]

Okay, so the new right length shocks are in and they seem to be working like they should for a pair of cheapies. For future reference, the Gabriel part number for a relocated top mount and 3" drop is 82607. I do believe that stiffer coil springs are in my future. Taking that much out of old coils may just be too much. It rides well, but I have to be careful, and that's just not in my nature. :D