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View Full Version : Power Brakes VS. Manual



Zaq
02-04-2013, 10:15 AM
The brake pedal in my 66 was stuck all the way to the floor so I knew it needed some work... well I found the last Manifold stud was busted off so I had to take the brake booster out of the way so I could get the drill in there so I figured "what the heck, might as well take it apart now" and the booster was totally fried. I could tell once I got the resevoir off it that the rubber inside the booster was cracked and pretty much gone. Taking it apart was a pain in the a$$ because the bolt that holds the clamp on the booster was towards the finder and I couldnt get a wrench on it so I cut the clamp at the top and now there is basically no putting it back on (which is fine, I'd rather replace anyway).

My question is, Should I bother replacing the whole booster and resevoir assembly (like $250) or should I just put manual brakes back in it? I was monkeying around under the dash but couldn't get a good look, is that booster assembly what the brake pedal bolts into? If so, putting manual brakes on it might be a pain? Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts.

67r/t4speeder
02-04-2013, 11:10 AM
If mine I would buy a new diaphram and fix the booster, if the metal is not rusted and buy a new master cylinder or kit that too.. That $250 for a booster and master sounds cheap I bet its rebuilt or universal.
You need to take the whole thing off though, it is a tricky to get to the bolts sometimes under dash but a long extension and swivel socket will really help out there. Dive in
Yes, the rod from the booster is bolted to the pedal, you dont take the whole pedal assembly out though just the pushrod rod bolt.

Zaq
02-04-2013, 11:25 AM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a28144/overview/year/1966/make/dodge/model/coronet

That is the link to the whole unit... but I will definitely take a look at rebuilding it. Thanks for the advice!

67r/t4speeder
02-04-2013, 11:28 AM
Carefull which one you get if you do

Notes: Will not work on models with factory equipped power brakes. Down at the bottom of page

67r/t4speeder
02-04-2013, 11:30 AM
Howd it go with the drilling?

Zaq
02-04-2013, 01:16 PM
The front stud (the one I broke the EZ Out off in) I drilled away with the carbide dremel bit and finally a whack with the hammer and punch got the ez out out and the rest of the drilling was a breeze. Ended up using a HeliCoil to fix it because the threads were too munged up from all the messing around I had to do.

I started on the back one and was using a small bit and was making good progress. Had the drill going nice and slow, was getting good chips off the bit, applying cutting oil and then BAM, that f$^@(!*# drill bit broke off... time to start it all over again. :) My arms were too tired from monkeying around with the first one to keep going on the other one so I gave up right when the bit broke. I'll tackle that one this week.

Zaq
02-04-2013, 01:17 PM
Carefull which one you get if you do

Notes: Will not work on models with factory equipped power brakes. Down at the bottom of page


Good eyes... turns out RockAuto has remanufactured ones WITH master cylinder for $86... I think I'll just go that route.

SmartPatrol
02-04-2013, 02:50 PM
Good eyes... turns out RockAuto has remanufactured ones WITH master cylinder for $86... I think I'll just go that route.
link?

Zaq
02-04-2013, 03:02 PM
link?

Sure, but don't buy it because there is only one left and I plan to buy it in a few weeks. :)

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=503538&p=rock

SmartPatrol
02-04-2013, 04:14 PM
Sure, but don't buy it because there is only one left and I plan to buy it in a few weeks. :)

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=503538&p=rock
Haha. thanks. I think I need the dual master anyway. But the booster looks nice.

67440Dodge
02-04-2013, 06:56 PM
Since you're swapping out the booster and MC, it might be a good idea to look into putting a dual pot MC on it.... if a hose or line ever lets go, you'll thank yourself..

Zaq
02-04-2013, 10:23 PM
How does the dual pot provide advantage over the single? Does one pot run front and the other back? Does this require running all new brake lines? (Not that I'm against that idea I just wonder for installation's sake)

beefman
02-04-2013, 10:46 PM
yea Zaq on a dual resovor mc the front res is for the front brakes and the rear res is for the rear brakes.If you have a leak or a problem of that nature say on the rear brakes,your front brakes will work properly and you will still be able to stop.Im not sure what it will take but you will probably have to re-route the brake lines.

Avenger
02-04-2013, 11:34 PM
Im actually doing that now..you just unhook the rear line from the junction block...hook a brake line coupler to it..run a piece of new line from the coupler up..plug the hole with a brake line plug in the junction block hook up both lines to the new dual master and done :)

Zaq
02-05-2013, 08:45 AM
Doesn't seem that bad then. I will probably go this route. Get a new booster and a dual pot master. Thanks for the advice everyone!

67440Dodge
02-05-2013, 09:09 AM
Dual pot MC's were probably one of the better safety requirements that the gov't has mandated over the years (I can live without stability or traction control these days). I've had a brake hose let go to the rears one time, and if it wasn't for the front still working it would have made for a ugly day.

Avenger
02-05-2013, 01:01 PM
Im just having problems getting the brake lines to come free from the block..any ideas? the block isnt attached to anything like its supposed to be :(

67440Dodge
02-05-2013, 01:06 PM
Soak it with PB Blaster and then clamp the distribution block to the frame rail and see if that will give you the leverage to bust it loose.

Avenger
02-05-2013, 01:19 PM
thats what i was thinking. I have to locate my c clamp first though :P lol

honcho
02-05-2013, 05:33 PM
Hey Avenger,when going to dual line MC,the big pod goes to the front brakes and be sure to curl the lines

Avenger
02-05-2013, 07:17 PM
Hey Avenger,when going to dual line MC,the big pod goes to the front brakes and be sure to curl the lines

I have always wondered, what does curling the lines do exactly? :confused:

67r/t4speeder
02-05-2013, 07:20 PM
It gives the hard line some flex area

67440Dodge
02-05-2013, 08:00 PM
Also, the bigger pot denotes it's a disc brake MC. (larger area for the fluid to react against means it needs a bigger reservoir)

Avenger
02-07-2013, 12:05 AM
The rear line is still stuck...soaking the heck out of it with PB...hoping for the best in a day or two...also all the fittings are rounded so vice grips or channel locks to get it out. :( Its also difficult to get at because its between the frame rail and the torsion bar :(

ws27
02-07-2013, 01:10 AM
Your best bet is to either replace the lines with new, or make them. Making them is one of the easiest things you could do once you learn how. All you need is some 3/16 line and nuts. A lot of time you can reuse the origional nuts unless rounded off. The special size nuts can be had as well.

good luck.

Avenger
02-07-2013, 10:24 AM
Yeah my neighbor said (he own an autoparts store in town) he has been helping me and that we could put a new one in and put a new T for the lines and such...i may have to go that route. ill try to pull it off again tonight after its been soaking in pb all today and last night..hope for the best...luckily lines are cheap lol

Racer Brown
02-07-2013, 11:46 AM
What Rich said, keep your old lines for a pattern, that's what I did.