When you are dealing with non stock modifing then you have to rig stuff. If you can't find the right length bolts then cut them down. If you are worried about using a grinder then use a saw(hack or saws all). Hack saw may take some time but no heat issues to worry about and makes a cleaner cut.
POWER INC. RACING
65' Coronet NSS/B
The ATOMIC WEDGiE
I actually ended up using the flex plate to crank bolts. They fit perfect with no modification.
Remember, friends don't let friends drive stock....
A solution that would make MacGyver proud.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the
the intention of arriving safely, in one
pretty and well preserved piece. Rather, to
skid in broadside thoroughly used up, worn out
and defiantly shouting "WOW, WHAT A RIDE"
The torque converter is meant to be flush against the flex plate for a reason. THe flex of the torque coverter plate and back of the converter do "torque" The plate transfers a bit of the stress. Using washers between converter and flex plate risks crapping the trans all over your shoes. Let us know if you do it and if it caps out we would like to see pictures. Also avoid any lock tite unless the manufacturer of the torque converter recommends it.
Originally Posted by Wild_Hemi
"I actually ended up using the flex plate to crank bolts. They fit perfect with no modification."
Sounds to me like it IS flush with the plate and the only deviation from stock is the use crank bolts. Brilliant solution if you ask me.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the
the intention of arriving safely, in one
pretty and well preserved piece. Rather, to
skid in broadside thoroughly used up, worn out
and defiantly shouting "WOW, WHAT A RIDE"
Yep. It is seated flush and loctite is recommended by TCI.
Remember, friends don't let friends drive stock....
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