Posts: 499
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2013
tgranthamfd Wrote:So, if either the gas gage or the temp gage works, then the limiter is good? is that correct? All of my dash lights are not working, as well. Gas and amp meter work, temp does not. and mine sat outside for a long time, not running. Headlight switch the likely culprit? Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread!
The temperature guage is most likely the sending unit on the engine or a bad connection there.... as you correctly stated since all the other guages work, the limiter is okay. The dash lights could be the dimmer switch, wire or circuit board. But as Hibbing mentioned above... cycle the dimmer as it is a rheostat that is basically a big coil of wire with a wiper contact rubbing it to make connection.
Posts: 135
Threads: 19
Joined: May 2013
Headlight switches are easy to get - if that's your problem. The dash lights in my '66 were intermittent because the rheostat was worn/dirty. I went to Parts Source (Canadian Tire's parts store) and they got one for me in a day.
Posts: 4,336
Threads: 91
Joined: Jan 2013
uncledon Wrote:ok so my dome light works, my temp gauge works, my amp gauge works,
my fuel gage does not work
my dash lights do not work
im confused....... if headlight switch was bad then my dome light wouldn't work???
OK, lets go back to square one. Three different issues and three different circuits.
First are the gauges. The voltage limiter supplies 5v to the temp and gas gauge only. The Amp meter is on it's own. So if one of your gauges works, then the limiter has to work.
Second, the dome light, although controlled by the head light switch and by turning the knob the same way you adjust the dash lights are also two different circuits. The dome light is just a different contact at the end of turning the dimmer switch.
Third, the dimmer is a potentiometer (sp?) that varies the voltage to the dash lights thus varying the brightness.
Most of the time (but not always) the pot inside the headlight switch corrodes on our old cars from sitting. That's why I suggested twisting the knob around a bunch of times and you may see the dash lights flicker or even come on. Do it in the dark so you can be sure to see. That is the best test of the headlight switch.
President, New England chapter of Coronetaholics anonomous.
Posts: 447
Threads: 58
Joined: Jan 2013
Have you inspected the fuses? That's the first step. Replace them all if need be. There is only 5 fuses. The glass buss fuse.
Then in test out the switch with a volt meter. Find the orange wire that feeds the radio. Unplug and test for voltage.
My bad. Dome light is not on the dash light circut.
Fuel gauge: test sending unit. Easy test. Remove driver side kick panel behind parking brake assm.
Pull out insulation, you will see a plug connector that goes down the under sill plate to rear of the car.
Test BLUE wire with ohm meter to ground.
Your measuring sending unit resistance. Another way is to jack up car and crawl under and test the sending unit at the terminal to ground using ohms scale.
If no value is measured? Sending unit is bad.
If there is a value from 11 to 65 ohms? Your sending unit is good!
Gauge test:
At the kick panel plug. The connector heading uphill to dash.
Key on, engine off, ground BLUE wire to any chassis metal.
Fuel gauge should go to FULL quickly.
If it does not move? Then it's the gauge itself or the mother board.
Posts: 106
Threads: 18
Joined: Jan 2014
awesome info....
and will keep you posted...
I have a feeling I will be researching and working on this fuel gauge issue.... I had to on my old 66 belvedere and never did find it...lol.
67 Coronet 500 "old yeller"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Posts: 447
Threads: 58
Joined: Jan 2013
When I got my coronet 2 years ago. The only thing that worked was the speedometer.
No turn lights. No 4 way flasher. No brake lights. No dome. No dash lights. No gauges. No cig lighter. No fender light indicators.
I've been down that road your on.
You will find your way thru it and its not that hard to fix.
Posts: 106
Threads: 18
Joined: Jan 2014
ahhh yes my fender blinkers don't work either lol...
fun of having a 47 year old car.
67 Coronet 500 "old yeller"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Posts: 447
Threads: 58
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,492
Threads: 67
Joined: Jan 2013
uncledon Wrote:awesome info....
and will keep you posted...
I have a feeling I will be researching and working on this fuel gauge issue.... I had to on my old 66 belvedere and never did find it...lol.
Regarding the fuel gauge - sometimes the float falls off the sender and then your guage reads empty all the time. Try this - turn the key into the "on" or "acc" postion (engine not running) crawl underneath the car - at the front of the gas tank you'll see the wire plugged onto the sender. Pull off the wire and "ground" it if your guage goes to full, your problem is the sender. Again sometimes the float falls off or cracks and fills with gas.
Posts: 154
Threads: 32
Joined: Feb 2014
theman440 Wrote:Regarding the fuel gauge - sometimes the float falls off the sender and then your guage reads empty all the time. Try this - turn the key into the "on" or "acc" postion (engine not running) crawl underneath the car - at the front of the gas tank you'll see the wire plugged onto the sender. Pull off the wire and "ground" it if your guage goes to full, your problem is the sender. Again sometimes the float falls off or cracks and fills with gas.
Also don't forget about the ground strap for the fuel sending unit.
